Results for: “Crafts & Hobbies”
|Kim Schaefer||C&T Publishing||ePub|
Quilted by Diane Minkley
FINISHED BLOCK SIZES: 10″ × 10″, 5″ × 5″ FINISHED TABLE RUNNER: 20½″ × 60½″
Going green is easy when you whip up this table runner from a smorgasbord of greens. This scrappy runner is sure to brighten any tabletop.
2 yards total assorted greens for pieced blocks and pieced border
2¼ yards for backing and binding
24″ × 64″ batting
Cut from the assorted greens for the pieced blocks:
5 squares 6½″ × 6½″
10 rectangles 1½″ × 6½″
20 rectangles 1½″ × 8½″
10 rectangles 1½″ × 10½″
Cut from the assorted greens for the pieced border blocks:
84 squares 1½″ × 1½″
112 rectangles 1½″ × 3½″
56 rectangles 1½″ × 5½″
1. Piece the block as shown. Press. Make 5 blocks.
2. Piece the border block as shown. Press. Make 28 blocks.
1. Arrange and sew together 5 blocks to form the center of the table runner. Press.
2. Arrange and sew together 2 rows of 10 border blocks to make the side borders. Press.
3. Sew the 2 side borders to the runner top. Press toward the borders.See All Chapters
|Amy Walsh||C&T Publishing||ePub|
by Amy Walsh, 70″ × 70″
FINISHED BLOCK: 6″ × 6"
FINISHED QUILT: 70″ × 70″
I have always wanted to live in a loft in downtown Chicago. I love the idea of escaping the frenetic energy of the streets in a cool, industrial-feeling apartment that overlooks our beautiful city. This is the type of quilt that would fit in perfectly with my idea of the perfect interior of such a home.
The following yardage makes a throw-sized quilt. Refer to the LOFT chart (page 27) for alternate sizes and yardage requirements.
Assorted pastel solids: 10 strips 6½″ × 42″ or 2 yards total
Solid gray: 5 yards for block centers, sashing, and outside borders
Binding: ½ yard
Backing: 5½ yards
Batting: 80″ × 80″
Don’t forget to wash your solids with Retayne (pages 15 and 70)!
From the assorted pastels, cut:
10 strips 6½″ × 42″
Cut each 6½″ strip into:
10 rectangles 2″ × 6½″ (Unit C)
10 rectangles 2″ × 3½″ (Unit B)
Each 6½″ strip will yield enough frames for 5 LOFT blocks.
From the solid gray, cut:
3 strips 6½″ × 42″See All Chapters
|Kate Carlson Colleran||C&T Publishing||ePub|
Making Your Quilt Bigger by Adding Borders
How do you make a quilt bigger? One way is to make more blocks. Sometimes that is a good thing; other times, well, you just can’t bear the thought!
Other ways to make a quilt bigger would be to make bigger blocks, or to add borders or make the existing borders bigger. Take the quilt Line Dance. It has three borders, but none of them are very big. You could easily make them a little bigger to get a bigger quilt.
How do you decide what size to make the borders? Well, there are theories on good proportions, but to make it easy, keep in mind the size of your blocks. If the borders are bigger than the size of the block, they may overwhelm the quilt and the blocks will get lost.
So for Line Dance, the block is 8˝ finished. The current borders are 1˝ wide, 2˝ wide, and 3˝ wide. So overall the borders are less than the finished size of the block. A good rule of thumb is to make the borders one-half to two-thirds the size of the block. But really, like color, it is more of a personal decision. You may like big borders; many of our quilts don’t have big borders. But that gives you lots of leeway to make them bigger!See All Chapters
|Alissa Haight Carlton||Stash Books||ePub|
80″ × 85″
Just two fabrics are used to make this graphic, eye-catching, double-size guilt.
The piecing of this guilt, like many others in this book, is not as involved as it looks. Many of the sections are the same, enabling you to piece long strips and then cut them into different portions and reassemble them with the remainder of the guilt top.
Based on 42″ fabric width.
Fabric A (blue): 4½ yards
Fabric B (yellow): 2½ yards
Backing: 4¾ yards
Please be sure to read Notes on Making the Quilts in This Book (page 6). Label the pieces as you cut.
Note Pieces that are labeled with a “.1” indicate that they are initially cut with their counterparts and are then trimmed off later.
Fabric A (blue)
1. 1 strip 10½″ parallel to the selvage; cut A1, A2, A3, A4, and A5.
Make sure you fold your fabric carefully before you cut. Line up the selvage so you know it’s square and your strips will be nice and straight.
2. Cut 1 strip 25½″ parallel to the selvage; cut A8, A9, A10, and All.
3. From the remaining fabric from Step 2, cut A6, A7, and A12.See All Chapters
|Carrie Bloomston||Stash Books||ePub|
Beginning is the hardest part for many creative people. I tend to procrastinate about starting any new project. I put a whole bunch of things in my way before I start: to-do lists, errands, cleaning—it’s as if I am trying to delay or defer my pleasure.
STARTING TAKES GUTS.
What if I’m terrible?
What if I fail?
What if I ruin it and waste all these materials?
You might be terrible at first. You may fail. You are definitely going to waste materials and make a mess. Then you won’t. In that order.
When you are ready to begin and you feel that fear popping up, ask yourself a simple question: “What is the worst thing that might happen if I fail, make a mess, fall on my face, waste some materials, or am terrible?” Your answer might be: “I’ll waste money that I don’t have and I won’t be able to pursue this anymore.” Or, “If I mess this up, then I’ll prove my parents (or spouse) right—that I’m not talented and I can’t do this—and I’ll be truly embarrassed.”See All Chapters