56 Chapters
Medium 9781907099762

PALERMO

Michelin Travel & Lifestyle ePub

DISCOVERING

PALERMOaa

The Northern barrio of Palermo is so big that it’s actually split into different boroughs—Palermo Chico, the trendy Palermo Viejo, the downtown area of Northern Palermo and the gastronomic zone in Las Cañitas. With that much ground to cover, it’s hard to know where to begin.

Each piece of Palermo couldn’t be more different. Palermo Chico is the historic home to Argentina’s elite. Today the neighborhood’s Colonial mansions and estates hold foreign embassies, educational centers and museums. Palermo Viejo, meanwhile, splits into the sub-neighborhoods of Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood. Palermo Soho, like its American counterpart, is artistic and bohemian. It borders the Plaza Cortázar, a meeting point for artists and designers, and the location of a weekend craft fair. Most of Argentina’s television and movie production studios can be found in the refurbished warehouses of Palermo Hollywood. For shopping, Northern Palermo is the neighborhood to go to, especially the Alto Palermo Shopping Center, the city’s swankiest shopping mall. Las Cañitas at the far right corner of the city was once best known for its military base and polo field. In the past few years, the neighborhood has been gaining more attention for its food. Get this: Las Cañitas has more restaurants than any other barrio in Buenos Aires.

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Medium 9781907099762

RECOLETA

Michelin Travel & Lifestyle ePub

DISCOVERING

RECOLETAaa

Most people first visit Recoleta to see the cemetery. The 5ha/13-acre Cementerio de la Recoleta is one of the most famous cemeteries in the world, and much of that celebrity is because it is the final resting place of Evita Perón. However, Recoleta is so much more than a cemetery—it’s really for the living, not the dead.

Beside the cemetery is the Basílica of Nuestra Señora del Pilar, one of the oldest churches in the city. The basilica’s Spanish Colonial architecture is impressive and even those who are not religious can enjoy sitting in on services here.

Buenos Aires is often called the Paris of South America, and nowhere is this more apparent than the French-style residences, large gardens, squares and broad avenues of this neighborhood. With all this beauty, it’s not surprising that Recoleta is also one of the priciest of Buenos Aires’ barrios. Most of the city’s luxurious hotels are located in Recoleta. The hotel prices are predictably steep, but you’ll have outstanding service as well as a unbeatable location next to many of the barrio’s national monuments.

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Medium 9781628871548

7 The Best Nightlife

Alexandra deVries FrommerMedia ePub

Drinks at Trapiche Gamboa.

Nightlife Best Bets

Best Cork-Popping Bar

Champanharia Ovelha Negra, Rua Bambina 120 (p 116)

Best Patio Bar

Bar dos Descasados, Rua Almirante Alexandrino 660 (p 120)

Best Bar for Channeling Your Inner Gloria Gaynor

Buraco da Lacraia, Rua André Cavalcanti 58 (p 119)

Best Lapa Live Music Venue

Circo Voador, Rua dos Arcos 1 (p 120)

Best Best Draft Beer

Pub Escondido CA, Rua Aires Saldanha 98 (p 117)

Best Bar for Spotting Celebrities

Baretto-Londra, Av. Vieira Souto 80 (inside Hotel Fasano) (p 120)

Best Après Beach Bar

Bar da Praia, Rua João Lira 5 (inside Marina Palace Hotel) (p 120)

Most Quintessential Carioca Botequim

Bip Bip, Rua Almirante Gonçalves 50 (p 117)

Best Pop-Art Gay Bar

TV Bar, Av. N.S. de Copacabana 1417 (inside Shopping Cassino Atlântica) (p 119)

Best Cocktails

Meza Bar, Rua Capitão Salomão 69 (p 117)

Best Cachaça Drink Menu

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Medium 9781628872460

7 THE SACRED VALLEY

Nicholas Gill FrommerMedia ePub

7

the sacred valley

The Urubamba Valley was sacred to the Incas, and it’s not hard to understand why. Better known as the Sacred Valley, it’s a serene and incomparably lovely stretch of small villages and ancient ruins spread across a broad plain, split by the Urubamba River and framed by magnificent Andes peaks and a massive sky. The Incas built several of the empire’s greatest estates, temples, and royal palaces between the sacred centers of Cusco and Machu Picchu, positioned like great bookends at the south and north ends of the valley. Many visitors use the valley as a base for visiting the region, as it’s about 300m (1,000 ft.) lower than Cusco, making it a better introduction for visitors prone to altitude-related health problems.

History    The entire valley is suffused by the great, if brief, presence of the Incas. From extraordinary temples to fortresses, no region in Peru is more marked by the continent-spanning civilization. Today, Quechua-speaking residents work fields with primitive tools and harvest salt using methods unchanged since the days of the Incas.

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3 The Best Neighborhood Walks: Catete, Santa Teresa, Gloria & Lapa, Jardim Botanico, Ipanema

Alexandra deVries FrommerMedia ePub

Botânico.

Catete
This bustling, middle-class neighborhood, wedged between Glória and Flamengo, first developed in the 19th century, when the “nouveau riche” coffee barons spent their fortunes building opulent mansions here. The neighborhood’s turning point came in 1889, the year that Brazil became a republic and the president moved into the Palácio do Catete. For the next 60 years, Catete served as the political center of the country. When the capital was transferred to Brasília in 1960, Catete lost its raison d’être. Thanks to urban renewal projects and the recent real estate boom, however, Cariocas are now rediscovering Catete’s attractions. START: Metro to Catete. Palácio do Catete. This mansion was built in 1862 as the private residence of a coffee baron and was later acquired by the federal government; it served as the presidential office and home of 18 presidents, from 1897 until 1960, when the capital was transferred to the brand-new city of Brasília. The palace was then converted into a museum (see below). The lovely gardens, off-limits to the public until 1960, are now a popular leisure and cultural venue and feature a cafe, bookstore, outdoor exhibits, a craft museum (see below) and children’s playground.  1 hr. Rua do Catete 153.  021/3235-5124. Daily 8am–8pm. Free admission.

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