12 Chapters
Medium 9781628872903


Chris Peacock FrommerMedia ePub

Outdoor theatre in Tivoli.

Copenhagen Arts & Entertainment

Arts & Entertainment Best Bets

Best Seat in the Arts Scene

★★★ Det Kongelige Teater Skuespilhus, Sankt Annæ Plads 36 (p 121)

Best Acoustics

★★★ Operaen, Ekvipagemestervej 10 (p 119)

Best Live Music Venue

★★ Plænen (Open-air Stage Tivoli), Vesterbrogade 3 (p 120)

Best for Dance Performances

★★★ Danish Dance Theatre, Pasteursvej 20 (p 119)

Best Spot for Formal Dressing

★★★ Det Kongelige Teater Old Stage, Kongens Nytorv 2 (p 121)

Best Venue for Musicals

★★ Det Ny Theater, Gammel Kongevej 29 (p 117)

Biggest Moviehouse

★★ Palads, Axeltorv 9 (p 119)

Strangest Venue for Concerts

★★ Rundetårn, Købmagergade 52a (p 118)

Biggest Rock Festival

★★★ Roskilde Festival, Roskilde (p 122)

Best Venue to See Hamlet

★★★ Kronborg Castle, Helsingør (p 122)

Amager Bio, one of the city’s biggest music venues.

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Chris Peacock FrommerMedia ePub

Nyhavn district.

17 Favorite Moments

Copenhagen just may be that rarest of all rare things—a perfect holiday destination. It’s compact and easy to navigate, yet bursting with royal palaces, innovative design museums, great shops, and vast green parks. Add to that a wealth of hip and plentiful bars, cafes, and restaurants, not to mention fascinating daytrips—it’s a complete and enticing package. Here are some of my favorite things to do in the booming Danish capital and environs.

❶ Lunching canal-side in the sun at Nyhavn, preferably at Cap Horn for its excellent organic dishes and superb langoustines. If it’s cold, wrap up in a blanket and huddle under one of the outside heaters. See p 95.

❷ Exploring the canals by boat, cruising by some of Copenhagen’s most famous sights to get your bearings in the city. See p 162.

❸ Making a fuss of the handsome Jutland horses in the stables at Carlsberg (p 50) and afterwards enjoying a glass of chilled lager at the Jacobsen Brewhouse. See p 107.

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Chris Peacock FrommerMedia ePub

The entrance to Tivoli.The Best in One DayTime to immerse yourself in romantic, chic Copenhagen. This city is about more than fabulous art collections and serious museums, although it has its fair share. Take to the cobbled streets to get right to its laid-back heart. See the city from the sea on a harbor cruise, then savor the casual vibe in the restaurants of Nyhavn. Discover the shopping streets of the old town, or delve into Danish history in Copenhagen’s biggest museum. Wind up your day at the iconic pleasure gardens of Tivoli to scream around roller coasters and feast on the finest Danish cuisine. START: Kongens Nytorv.❶ ★★★ Harbor Tour. Boat tours leave up to six times an hour from the top of Nyhavn Canal, and I highly recommend taking one—not just to get your bearings, but also to understand how the city has developed from its medieval infancy to the cutting-edge destination of today. Take the Red Line boat trip to the north of the harbor and sit at the front of the boat if you want to catch the English commentary. As you leave Nyhavn, look left for the much-celebrated and handsome Det Kongelige Teater Skuespilhuset (Royal Danish Playhouse, p 121). Right across the water you’ll spy the innovative Opera House (p 119), with a curving four-story foyer and cantilevered roof, floating on its man-made island. On the left and just downstream from the Queen’s palace at Amalienborg (p 40) there’s a photo opportunity at the Little Mermaid statue (p 59), who sits on an empty shoreline gazing wistfully out to sea. On the return journey through the canals of Christianshavn (p 64) get cameras ready for the gold-topped Vor Frelsers Kirke, which appears on the left (p 64), and the sparkling Den Sorte Diamant (Black Diamond), housing part of Denmark’s royal library (p 29), which looms up as you turn out of Christianshavn Canal. Before returning to Nyhavn, the boat putters around the islet of Slotsholmen (p 39), site of Copenhagen’s first palace, built by Bishop Absalon, who founded the city in 1167 a.d.  1 hr. Canal Tours, Nyhavn 1433 (at head of canal). ☎ 45 3296 3000. www.stromma.dk. Book in advance at Copenhagen Visitor Service, Vesterbrogade 4a. ☎ 45 7022 2442. www.visitcopenhagen.com. Tickets 80DKK adults, 40DKK kids; free with a Copenhagen Card (p 163). Daily June 27–Aug 16 9:30am–9pm, 6 tours per hour; Mar 12–June 26 & Aug 17–Sept 13 9:30am–6pm, 1–4 tours per hour; rest of year trips leave at 10am, 11:20am, 12:40am; 2pm & 3:20pm. Metro: Kongens Nytorv.

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3 THE BEST NEIGHBORHOOD WALKS: Vesterbro to Frederiksberg, Waterfront Walk, Latin Quarter to Christiana, Norrebro to the Lakes

Chris Peacock FrommerMedia ePub

Amager Square.Vesterbro to FrederiksbergThe once-gritty Vesterbro district west of the central train station has been transformed in the past few years, with a new wave of hipster bars and cafes, ethnic shops and restaurants. Around the Carlsberg Brewery, one of the oldest in the world, the atmosphere changes as you enter smart Frederiksberg, with its royal connections and expansive mansion-lined boulevards. START: Bus 1A to Dybbølsbro St.❶ ★★ Kødbyen (Meatpacking District). Vesterbro’s rejuvenated Meatpacking District might be known for its hipster nightlife, packed with trendy bars, restaurants, and clubs, but it’s also home to a cluster of independent art galleries and studios well worth exploring. These forward thinking galleries are largely gathered on Flæsketorvet square. One of the most established is Galleri Bo Bjerggaard (Flæsketorvet 85 A) with curated work focused on international contemporary art, photography, and film installations from the likes of Per Kirkeby, Georg Baselitz, and Jonathan Meese. Just next door, V1 Gallery (Flæsketorvet 69-71) is one of Copenhagen’s most progressive art galleries, where some of the world’s most legendary street artists, such as Banksy, Todd James and Lydia Fong, have exhibited. Gallery Poulsen (Flæsketorvet 24) is also good for a browse for its small collection of colorful prints and drawings. A block away, the high-ceilinged and beautifully-lit Fotografisk Center (Bygning 55, Staldgade 16) showcases everything from fine art photography to photo journalism through eight or so different exhibitions a year. Free admission to Flæsketorvet galleries. Fotografisk Center admission 25DKK.

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Arken, Museum of Modern Art

Southwest of Copenhagen, the Arken museum is housed in an extraordinary building by Danish architect Søren Robert Lund; when viewed from the right spot, it resembles a ship looming out of the sea. Take a half-day trip (2 to 3 hours) to see this collection of ground-breaking contemporary art in superlative surroundings. Combine it with a visit to the beach at Ishøj Strand for a fun, family day out. START: Follow the E20 17km from the center of Copenhagen and take exit 26 to Ishøj Strand. By rail, take S-trains A or E from Hovedbanegården (Central Station) to Ishøj. From there, bus 128 runs straight to the museum.

❶ ★★ Sculpture Galleries. Arken reopened in 2008 following the addition of a new, light-flooded sculpture gallery, with installations on show from the permanent collection. Look for Olafur Eliasson’s Light Ventilator Mobile, illuminating with a searchlight and circulating air with four fans. Close by is Jeppe Hein’s Mirror Spiral Labyrinth, which leads confused visitors around in circles.

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