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Medium 9781628870640

7. ON & OFF THE ROMANTIC ROAD

Donald Olson FrommerMedia ePub

7

ON & OFF THE ROMANTIC ROAD

For many travelers, Germany hits its high notes along the so-called Romantische Strasse, or Romantic Road, a scenic route that rambles through much of Bavaria. The 350km (220 miles) of specially marked lanes and secondary roads wind from the vineyard-clad hills surrounding Würzburg south through an unfolding panorama of beautiful landscapes interspersed with small medieval cities. To the south, the road rises through foothills covered with verdant pastures, lake-splashed countryside, and groves of evergreens to the dramatic heights of the Alps that divide Germany and western Austria. As if all this scenery weren’t enough, these final stretches of the road lead to Linderhof and Neuschwanstein, two of the fantasy castles built by the legendary King Ludwig II in the second half of the 19th century.

Officially, the scenic route the German government drew up after World War II takes in 28 towns and villages. We take a few liberties and veer off the Romantic Road to also include some fascinating nearby places that are too good to miss—among them Nürnberg, a city that all in one swoop encompasses medieval and Renaissance splendor, the horrors of World War II, and the successes of Germany’s postwar rebuilding. We also detour east to Regensburg, a little city that was untouched by the war and as result comprises one of Europe’s largest swaths of medieval architecture. In the south, we wander off the Romantic Road to take in a section of the Bavarian Alps around Garmisch-Partenkirchen.

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Medium 9781628870602

6. The Best Dining

Donald Olson FrommerMedia ePub

Dining Best Bets

 

Best Falafel

Dada Falafel Linienstrasse 132 (Go to Page)

Best Riverside Dining

Patio Helgoländer Ufer/Kirchstrasse (Go to Page)

Best Splurge

Vau Jägerstrasse 54 (Go to Page)

Best Skyline Views

Solar Stresemannstrasse 76 (Go to Page)

Best for Families

Ampelmann Restaurant Stadtbahnbogen 159/160 (Go to Page)

Best Spicy Sausage

Curry 36 Mehringdamm 36 (Go to Page)

Best for Chocolate Indulgence

Fassbender & Rausch Charlottenstrasse 60 (Go to Page)

Best Alpine Flavors

Schneeweiss Simplonstrasse 16 (Go to Page)

Best Old-World Tavern

Gasthaus Krombach Meinekestrasse 4 (Go to Page)

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Medium 9781628873009

16 FAVORITE MOMENTS

Donald Olson FrommerMedia ePub

Downtime on Cannon Beach.

16 Favorite Moments

Sometimes Portland seems almost too good to be true. Just try to get locals to stop rhapsodizing about the cuisine, the liveability and bike-ability, the great neighborhoods, the nearby mountains and ocean, the beer and wine and coffee and—see what I mean? Once a gritty younger sibling to Seattle, the City of Roses has roared into its own in recent years, becoming a nationwide magnet for creative, outdoorsy folks young, old, and in-between—anyone who wants a vibrant, forward-thinking city that’s also manageable. Now Portland swings far above its weight class in everything from coffee roasting to sustainability. Here are just a few of the highlights.

❶ Browse Powell’s City of Books. The world’s top independent bookstore fills an entire city block (and that’s just this branch) with over 1.5 million new and used books. It’s pure bibliophile nirvana. See p 77.

Cycling across the Hawthorne Bridge.

❷ Bike over the Hawthorne Bridge. Bikes are a way of life in Portland, and there’s no better way to join the rolling masses than to take a spin across the Hawthorne Bridge over the Willamette River, especially in the evening. See p 93.

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1. THE BEST OF GERMANY

Donald Olson FrommerMedia ePub

1

THE BEST OF GERMANY

The word is out and maybe you’ve heard it: Germany is one of Europe’s great travel destinations. Every year, more and more visitors from around the globe are discovering the pleasures to be found in Germany’s cities, towns, and countryside. Tourist numbers have risen steadily in the 25 years since the country’s dramatic reunification in 1989–1990 and show no sign of slowing down.

Germany’s appeal is really no great mystery. Moody forests, jagged Alpine peaks, and miles of neatly tended vineyards are not just scenic but the stuff of legend, places that have inspired fairy tales and where much of Western history has been played out. The Germans more than anyone appreciate the soothing tonic of a hike in the Black Forest or a stroll on North Sea dunes, and just seeing these storied lands from a train window can be good for the soul. The cities are treasure-troves not just of great art and history but of culture, sophisticated lifestyles, and, from ever-changing Berlin to old-world Baden-Baden, cutting-edge architecture. Food—well, don’t write off the cuisine as just a lot of heaping plates of wurst and sauerkraut and schnitzel with noodles. For one thing, these traditional dishes are delicious, and one of the pleasures of traveling in Germany is discovering time-honored regional favorites.

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9. FRANKFURT, COLOGNE & THE RHINELAND

Donald Olson FrommerMedia ePub

9

FRANKFURT, COLOGNE & THE RHINELAND

For about 2 centuries now, the mighty Rhine has attracted visitors from around the world, who come to enjoy the romantic scenery of hilltop castles, medieval towns, and vineyard-covered slopes. The Rhineland, the area along the river’s west bank, is a treasure-trove for tourists, with Cologne, the Rhineland’s largest and most important city, sitting right on the river. Possessing the largest cathedral in Germany and filled with a fascinating assortment of museums and cultural venues, Cologne makes a wonderful headquarters for exploring the Rhineland. There are many day trip options from Cologne, including Aachen, one of Germany’s oldest cities, the Mosel Valley, covered with meticulously tended vineyards, and river trips on the Mittelrhein (Middle Rhine), the river’s most scenic stretch, where you can glide by castle-crowned summits, stop at riverside wine towns, and finally see that rock—the Loreley—that you’ve heard so much about.

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