291 Chapters
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Medium 9782067182042


Michelin Michelin ePub

First settled after the Civil War, Central Oregon was sparsely populated for a century until a tourist economy took root in outdoor recreation in the 1960s. Long an Indian home, eastern Oregon was passed up by early pioneers en route to the fertile Willamette Valley. Later arrivals found this country excellent for ranching and mining.

Today, with 120 days of sunshine annually and plentiful outdoor recreation, including snow skiing, mountain biking, golf and white-water rafting, the Bend area is popular with outdoors enthusiasts, and retirees. To the southwest, Mount Bachelor and the Cascade Lakes beckon anglers, skiers and hikers. To the south, the wildlife-rich Hart and Steens ranges thrust skyward. South of Bend, remnants of ancient volcanic activity can be seen at Newberry National Volcanic Monument. To the east, John Day Fossil Beds National Monument affords a glimpse into the distant past of this geologically rich area.

Despite Oregon’s public image as a land of deep forests, almost two-thirds of the state lies within this vast, thinly populated, largely arid landscape of sagebrush and pine, hawk and coyote.

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Medium 9782067197558


Michelin Michelin ePub

Frankfurt am Mainaa

Germany’s financial and commercial capital, Frankfurt is characterised by a forest of skyscrapers in its centre, filled with international companies, government organisations and banks. Some of the world’s biggest trade shows, including the famous Frankfurt Book Fair, take place in high-tech halls near the airport, the largest and busiest on the continent. But Frankfurt isn’t all business. Join the locals in the traditional cider taverns, visit Goethe’s birth house or take in the stellar exhibits in the string of museums hugging the south bank of the Main River.

=     Population: 643 000

i      Info: Lobby of Hauptbahnhof (main train station). t(069) 21 23 88 00. www.frankfurt.de.

Ñ   Location: Two major autobahns join near Frankfurt: The A3 (Köln–Nuremburg) and the A5 (Karlsruhe). The city is 2hrs from Köln and 2hrs 30min from Nuremburg.

õ   Parking: Garages are located throughout the city. Visit www.frankfurt.de for specific locations and fees.

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Medium 9782067182042

The Great Outdoors

Michelin Michelin ePub

Point Defiance Park a

5400 N. Pearl St., Tacoma. t 253-305-1000. www.metroparkstacoma.org. Open daily half hour before dawn–half hour after dusk.

At 702 acres, Point Defiance Park is one of the largest city parks in the nation. It has plenty of places to enjoy the out-of-doors, whether hiking through the park’s dense stands of old-growth Douglas-fir forest; watching bald eagles dive for salmon in the tidal rapids below 250ft cliffs; beachcombing at Owen’s Beach or strolling through the rose, dahlia or Japanese gardens. The Point Defiance Zoo and Aquariuma sits near the park’s entrance, and the Fort Nisqually Living History Museumaa is located on a 5mi forested loop drive that offers viewing opportunities of raccoons as they scamper along the road shoulder, and the Tacoma Narrows Bridge and waterway. Outside the park’s entrance is a Washington State Ferries dock for ferries bound for nearby, rural Vashon Island.

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Medium 9782067197558


Michelin Michelin ePub

The West

 Cologne

 Aachen

 Ruhr Region

 Düsseldorf

 Sauerland

 Bonn

 Eifel

 Trier

 Moselle Valley

 Koblenz

 Rhine Valley

 Frankfurt am Main

 Wiesbaden

 Mainz

 Mannheim

 Heidelberg

 Pfalz

 Speyer

 Saar­brücken

The West

Germany’s western regions deliver a cornucopia of diverse and awe-inspiring sightseeing opportunities. Soak up cosmopolitan flair and stunning art and architecture in cities such as Düsseldorf, Cologne and Frankfurt or escape to historic villages in the hilly Sauerland or the gentle Eifel. Follow the mighty Rhine or the meandering Moselle rivers past a fairytale setting of medieval castles, steep vineyards and little towns that are veritable symphonies in half-timber. Walk in the footsteps of the Romans in Trier, check out Charlemagne’s legacy in Aachen and see for yourself the beauty of Heidelberg, which has inspired so many great poets and artists.

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Medium 9781907099229


Michelin Michelin ePub




4000– — Neolithic settlers arrive

2500 BC by the Atlantic route

2000– — Bronze Age

1000 BC agriculturalists arrive from the continent

800 BC–AD 400 — Iron Age peoples from central Europe


The Roman conquest of Caledonia was never fully accomplished although there were two main periods of occupation. The initial one (c.80–c.100), which started with Julius Agricola’s push northwards, is notable for the victory at Mons Graupius. The second period followed the death in 138 of the Emperor Hadrian (builder of the wall in the 120s). His successor Antoninus Pius advanced the frontier to its earlier limits but by the mid-160s the Antonine Wall was definitively abandoned.

55, 54 BC — Caesar invades Britain; conquest begins AD 43

AD 71–84 — Romans push north into Caledonia ; Agricola establishes a line of forts between the Clyde and Forth

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Medium 9782067182042

Willamette Valley

Michelin Michelin ePub

The Willamette’s loamy soil gives rise to a feast of foods that enrich the plates of the finest restaurants in Portland. The climate and soil are ideal for vineyards, and more than 500 wineries, mostly west of Interstate 5, draw visitors from around the world to wine-country tasting rooms. Charming small towns, bucolic countryside and farm stands provide additional reasons to stop and savor Oregon’s wine country.

A string of cities, including the state capital of Salem and the free-spirited town of Eugene, are situated along I-5, which runs north to south through the center of the valley. To the west, the forested Coast Range cradles the valley, and 30mi to the east, waterfalls plummet down mossy Cascade Range hillsides alongside wooded hiking trails whose vine maple trees turn crimson and orange in the fall.


The capital of Oregon is the state’s third-largest city (pop. 156,000). Salem traces its founding to 1840, when Jason Lee moved the headquarters of his Methodist mission to this mid-Willamette Valley location. Lee’s house and other early buildings still stand at the Willamette Heritage Center at the Millaa (1313 Mill St.; t 503-585-7012; www.willametteheritage.org; open year-round Mon–Sat 10am–5pm ;$6), a five-acre historical park that includes the 1889 Thomas Kay Woolen Mill. A millstream courses beneath the main mill building, and inside, massive looms operate with water-powered turbines. Four buildings, filled with period furnishings, were moved to this site, and are considered the oldest in the Northwest, dating to the 1840s.

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Medium 9781907099229


Michelin Michelin ePub


In the 17C the Aberdonian George Jamesone (1588–1644) was the leading portraitist. His sensitive works are reminiscent of Van Dyck.

The 18C is marked by the portraitist Allan Ramsay (1713–1784), responsible for the founding of Edinburgh’s first important art academy and painter to George III. His delicate portraits of women are notable. Henry Raeburn (1756–1823), George IV’s Limner for Scotland, also has a well-deserved reputation as a portrait painter (The Reverend Robert Walker skating, Sir Walter Scott, Mrs Lumsden, Mrs Liddell). These two artists painted the gentry and leading personalities of the period and are well represented in the major art galleries and country houses.


Alexander Nasmyth (1785–1859), Ramsay’s assistant, became a successful landscape artist (Robert Burns, The Windings of the Forth, Distant Views of Stirling). The idealised treatment of nature is illustrated in The Falls of Clyde by the Neoclassical master Jacob More. Gavin Hamilton (1723–1798) painted vast historical compositions (illustrations of Homer’s Illiad, The Abdication of Mary, Queen of Scots) and became very successful in Rome. In the 19C Walter Scott’s novels brought about renewed interest in Scottish landscape: Glencoe, Loch Katrine, Inverlochy Castle by Horatio McCullough (1805–1867), who is famous for his Highland scenes. David Wilkie’s (1785–1841) artistry is evident in his realistic popular scenes (Pitlessie Fair, Distraining for Rent) and portraits (George IV), which show Raeburn’s influence. The Gentle Shepherd illustrates Ramsay’s pastoral poem.

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Medium 9782067179844


Michelin Michelin ePub

Drayton Hallaaa

3380 Ashley River Rd. 843-769-2600. www.draytonhall.org. Visit by 1-hour guided tour only, Mar–Oct daily 8:30am–5pm. Rest of the year daily 8:30am–4pm. Closed Jan 1 and Dec 24, 25 & 31. $14.

Considered to be one of the finest existing examples of Georgian-Palladian architecture in America, Drayton Hall is the only plantation house on the Ashley River to have survived the Revolutionary and Civil wars intact. Begun in 1738 and completed in 1742 for John Drayton, the majestic brick mansion—whose architect is unknown—overlooks the river from its 630-acre site. Symmetry and classical detail distinguish the 2-story, 10-room interior, which remains in near original condition. The raised English basement was used largely for storage space. Two 2-story brick outbuildings, known as flankers, were constructed in the 18C, one to serve as a kitchen and the other as a laundry space. One flanker was lost in the 1886 earthquake; the kitchen flanker was destroyed by an 1893 hurricane. Only the privy building, once containing 7 seats, remains from the 18C; it was converted to an office in the late 19C.

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Medium 9782067182042


Michelin Michelin ePub

Lake Chelan aa

Hwy. 97, 103mi north of Ellensburg. t 509-682-3503. www.lakechelan.com.

This narrow, 50mi-long lake is a recreational haven at its southern end, anchored by the tiny town of Chelan. At its northern end, wilderness terminates at the deeply forested community of Stehekin, a backpackers’ launch pad into the rugged North Cascades National Forest. The Lady of the Lake passenger ferry and float planes carry travelers between the two points. In and near Chelan are pleasant beaches, including Lake Chelan State Park, with 6,000ft of shoreline. Slidewaters waterpark, in Chelan, offers another water-play option.

Dry Fallsa

On Rte. 17, 17mi north of Soap Lake. www.parks.wa.gov. Open summer daily 6:30am–dusk. Winter 8am–dusk.

Few places offer as raw and memorable a look at geological forces as Dry Falls. The “falls” are a bowl-shaped 400ft chasm, 3.5mi wide, carved into volcanic bedrock in the Columbia Basin desert. Thousands of years ago, catastrophic Ice Age floods surged through here as prehistoric Lake Missoula in Montana periodically broke though its ice dam and sent billions of gallons of water west to the Pacific, carving the Columbia Basin landscape.

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Medium 9781907099427

Must Eat

Michelin Michelin ePub

Luxury $$$$ over $75
Moderate $$ $25–$50

Expensive $$$ $50–$75
Inexpensive $ under $25

Café Boulud

© B. Milne/Café Boulud


Per Se

Upper West Side

$$$$ American
10 Columbus Cir. at 60th St., Upper West Side. 212-823-9335. www.perseny.com.

Chef Thomas Keller's New York interpretation of his famed French Laundry restaurant in Napa puts a premium on fresh ingredients and a stunning Central Park view.

Sushi Yasuda

$$$$ Japanese

East Midtown

204 E. 43rd St. between Second & Third Aves., East Midtown. 212-972-1001. www.sushiyasuda.com.

Naomichi Yasuda elevates sushi to new heights at his namesake restaurant. The menu changes daily in the bamboo-sheathed dining room.


Café Boulud

Upper East Side

$$$ French
20 E. 76th St. between Fifth & Madison Aves., Upper East Side. 212-772-2600.


Daniel Boulud offers four different tasting menus: La Tradition, with old-fashioned dishes; La Saison, with seasonal fare; Le Potager, with market-fresh produce; and Le Voyage, inspired by world cuisines.

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Medium 9782067182042

Historical Site

Michelin Michelin ePub

Open year-round daily. Visitor center at 3029 Spirit Lake Hwy., Toutle; t 360-274-0962; www.parks.wa.gov/stewardship/mountsthelens; open May–mid-Sept daily 9am–5pm, rest of the year 4pm; closed major holidays. t 360-449-7800. www.fs.usda.gov/mountsthelens. $5.

One of the world’s most famous volcanoes, Mount St. Helens erupted in 1980 with the intensity of 500 atomic bombs, destroying its northern flank and blasting away more than 1,300ft of elevation. In 1982 the US Congress declared Mount St. Helens a National Volcanic Monument. Today the eviscerated mountain, surrounded by a 172sq-mi preserve, is a leading visitor attraction.

Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument

Practical Information

When to Go

July is the best time to see flower-filled alpine meadows at Mt. Rainier, but any summer day through September offers the best opportunity for clear weather and great views at both Rainier and Mount St. Helens. Summertime frequently brings fog to the Washington coast, so the best times to visit are the shoulder seasons or winter-storm season.

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Medium 9781907099229


Michelin Michelin ePub


Shaped by Celtic beginnings, the early influence of invading Norsemen and the recurrent colonisation – peaceful or otherwise – by the English, the nation’s culture has developed into a fascinating hybrid that is impossible to pin down. Rugged and romantic, traditional and modern, it is always evolving, yet manages to remain true to its roots.



Mainland Scotland retains two of the earliest buildings erected by the Celtic clergy, the round towers of Brechin and Abernethy. Dating from the late 10C to early 11C these refuges or belfries are outliers of an Irish tradition. Although tangible remains are few, the Christian faith was an important unifying factor in Dark Age Scotland.


Scotland of the mid-11C with its Celtic and Norse influences was soon to undergo a new and gradual Anglo-Norman colonisation. It was the west and north, the strongholds of the old cultures, that resisted the new imprint.

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Medium 9782067182028

Must Know

Michelin Michelin ePub

Unmissable sights in and around Italy

aaa Absolutely Must See

aa Really Must See

a Must See

No star See

aaaThree Star

Accademia, Florence x

Accademia, Venice

Aeolian Islands

Agrigento temples

Alps: Dolomites

Amalfi Coast


Appia Antica, Rome

Archaeolog. Museum, Naples


Bargello, Florence

Battistero, Parma

Capitolino, Rome


Caracalla, Rome

Castel Sant’Angelo, Rome

Catacombe, Rome

Ca’d’Oro, Venice

Cinque Terre


Cortina d’Ampezzo, Alps

Erice, Sicily


Egyptian Museum, Turin

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Medium 9782067179844

Historic District

Michelin Michelin ePub


Nathaniel Russell Houseaaa

51 Meeting St. 843-724-8481. www.historiccharleston.org. Visit by 30-minute guided tour only, year-round Mon–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun 2pm–5pm. Closed Thanksgiving Day & Dec 24–25. $10. Combination tickets are available for Nathaniel Russell and Aiken-Rhett houses.

If you just see one historic house in Charleston, make it this one. The sister property to the Aiken-Rhett House, the 3-story, 9-room Nathaniel Russell House has been restored to its 19C glory after the roof collapsed when Hurricane Hugo blew through town in 1989. The brick residence, considered to be one of the best examples of Federal-style architecture in the US, was built in 1808 for Nathaniel Russell and his wife, Sarah. Born in Rhode Island, Russell came to Charleston at age 27 in 1765, as an agent for a Providence import-export firm. When he moved his family into the new house in 1808, Russell was 70 years old, and ranked as one of the city’s wealthiest merchants. You can see his prosperity for yourself in the ornate carved woodwork and moldings, and the collections of fine 18C Charleston-made antiques and English silver that decorate the lovely rooms.

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Medium 9781907099427


Michelin Michelin ePub

Chrysler Buildingaaa

405 Lexington Ave. at E. 42nd St. 4, 5, 6 or 7 train to Grand Central Terminal. See map opposite.

When you have money, you can do anything; or so Walter P. Chrysler must have thought when he commissioned architect William Van Alen to design the world’s tallest building. One of the first large buildings to use metal extensively on its exterior, the 77-story Art Deco landmark pays sparkling homage to the car. It was briefly the world’s tallest building in 1930, after its architect secretly ordered a 185-foot spire attached to its crown, edging out the Bank of Manhattan, which was two feet taller. Alas, the distinction lasted only a few months; the Empire State Building blew both buildings away when it opened in 1931.

Stylistically the Chrysler Building has stood the test of time: the

six semi-circular arches of its stainless-steel pinnacle, patterned after a 1930 Chrysler radiator cap, glimmer majestically during the day and are dramatically lit at night.

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